Market Scene, Israel

The Carmel Market. Bursting with life, with surprises tucked away.

“Allo, madame, only a shekel,” “The sweetest watermelon,” “Come, taste this, sweetheart” – this is just a hint of the raucous repertoire of the vendors in Tel Aviv’s busiest market. For those who are mad about markets, this place is heaven. And for fans of freshness, there could be no better destination – perfect parsley, the crispiest carrots, the most marvelous magnoes. Not to mention the meat, the fish, the cheeses, the flowers – a true cornucopia of flavors and aromas.

May Tel Avivans come to the Carmel Market as a weekly ritual to enliven the senses: color dazzles the eye, voices and music awaken the ear, aromas waft into the nose. The merchandise is irresistible: Rahmo’s nuts and seed, Freddie the butcher’s meats and sausages, Margalit’s cilantro, Shlomo’s falafel, the barbunia (re mullet) sold by Mussa the Fisherman.

Stalls line both sides of the covered market’s main walkway, but don’t miss the shops in the tiny alleys behind. That’s where you’ll find the genuine gems: the cheese and smoked meat delicatessens, the barrels full of herring and other salted fish, all varieties of pickles, halvah and other sweets, even clothing and fabric shops.

Foreign workers from the Far East and lovers of Asian cuisine will find almost everything they desire at the Chinese Grocery Store. Here you can run your fingers through the large sacks of rice, study the unusual array of canned and preserved goods, sniff the dried mushrooms and sesame oil that carry with them the scent of faraway places.

True, it’s not Chinatown, but in the real one, in New York, you won’t find a choice of luscious Yemenite restaurants nearby, as you do here. Just two short blocks away, in the Yemenite Quarter, huge pots of traditional Yemenite delicacies are simmering on the gas burners: Yemenite soup with the unique spice mixture, hawaij: calf’s foot soup; roasted lungs; together with special Yemenite breads and dough-based dishes such as kubaneh, zalabiya and the famous jahnoon.

Your nose will guide you to the bakeries, spice shops and coffee-roasters. “Dessert” is awaiting you at Sami Bourekas, a sort of Turkish fast food joint whose savory filled pastries are served warm accompanied by an oven-baked brown egg and a cold beer. You’ll be licking the last delicious crumbs of salty white cheese from your fingers as you head for more shopping on Allenby Street or toward the nearby beach to laze in the sun.

The Carmel Market is a feast for the senses, an anthropological and gastronomic adventure. The market addicts who go there every Friday (if not more frequently) are faced with delightful dilemmas: Freshly squeezed carrot juice, or pomegranate juice? Falafel or Yemenite soup? For visitors who are marketplace aficionados, a captivating two-hour exploration of this truly authentic bazaar will add a memorable dash of spice to their stay in Tel-Aviv.

Open every day except Saturday, from 8 a.m. until evening (shops close earlier on Friday afternoons, before Shabbat). Located between Allenby Street and the seashore.

As does every big city, Tel Aviv has its own flea market, too. Antique furniture, mostly imported from Europe, carpets, reupholstered sofas, wooden figures, dolls, colorful pillows, curtains, metal implements, swords, narghiles, silver and copper items from the East (both Near and Far) – in fact, anything that is too old or too unusual to find a place in the malls.

But the Flea Market is only a small part of Jaffa, which is saturated with the fragrances of the East. The bustling, partially covered market is packed with bargains to suit every taste and pocketbook, especially for those who have time and patience.

The young – and the young at heart – will find clothing and accessories, much of it Indian-style: sharwal pants, bright tunics and ponchos, scarves in every hue, as well as jewelry made from silver, wood and plastic, some handmade, some not really. Most of the merchandise makes its way here from the Far Ease, of course.

If collecting unusual items is your passion, go to the shops lining the market’s tiny lanes and discover old toys, transistor radios from the olden days, old diaries and journal,, newspapers and periodicals, stamps, postcards, you name it. Don’t hesitate to bargain – that would deprive the merchants of one of their greatest pleasures.

As for food, in the market you can find tiny cafes, simple worker’s eateries and fresh juice and falafel stands, but the jewel in the crown is the legendary Abulafia bakery, a stone’s throw away on Yefet Street. Don’t miss the freshly baked pittot topped with eggs, cheese, za’atar (a local herb) and olive oil, or the piping-hot sambusak, a pastry stuffed with delicious fillings. Our recommendation: the filling made with salty white Bulgarian cheese.

Open Sunday through Thursday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Fridays until 2 p.m. Located near the Clock Tower at the beginning of Yefet Street.

The Nahalat Binyamin Pedestrian Mall

Twice a week, in a laid-back, urban atmosphere, Israel’s main crafts fair showcases an amazing array of unique, locally made items. The bustling bazaar along both sides of a pedestrian mall in one of the city’s oldest shopping precincts has earned a reputation for striking original designs in jewelry, ceramics, home décor and more.

Along with the fine crafts on offer, the welcoming cafes and fresh-juice stands, you’ll also find street theater, musicians and palm readers. You can even get your future foretold by readers of the coffee grounds that sink to the bottom of a cup of Turkish brew. It’s a treasure trove of trinkets that can transform life into one big smile!

Tuesdays and Fridays, from10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Located on Nahalat Binyamin Street, starting from Allenby.

Creative artists’ Fair

A twice-weekly happening that gathers together artists and craftspeople to sell their unique works, along the city’s premiere shopping streets, Dizengoff. The bazaar features works in wood, glass, ceramics, metal, as well as jewelry, painting, sculpture and illuminated blessings. New Age items and crafts of all kinds, plus imported works. Romantics will be happy to brose among the second (third – and fourth–) hand clothing, including some finds from the Sixties. The prices are reasonable, and so are the hours.

Monday from noon until 8 p.m. and Fridays from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Located on Dizengoff street between Dizengoff Circle and Frishman street.

Antiques and Secondhand Items Fair

A wonderful alternative for those who have done the Flea Market and are looking for bargains in the center of the city. This quality antiques fair, featuring about 100 different vendors, offers private collections of rare items in the fields of Judaica, old photographs, original and reproduced paintings and drawings, antique tools and musical instruments, rare books, household items, toys, vintage clothing, props for theater and film productions and more. Don’t miss this mobile museum!

Tuesdays from 2 p.m. to 8 p.m. and Fridays from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Located at Dizengoff Circle.